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How do we define an argument? After all who’s to say what is right and wrong? Our individual motives are based upon the beliefs and directions of those we grew to be around and from the studies and curiosity of our ancestors. Even today, education is proving to be false in many areas and new discoveries are constantly challenging old traditions. Therefore debating what’s right and wrong can only really end with a truce because the truth is none of us really know who stands corrected living in a false world of misguided wisdom. Having purchased a ticket together with Ryan for our next destination I was at first a little reluctant about spending eighteen hours with someone I had recently had a quarrel with and as of yet still not had a chance to resolve the issue. It was one of those uncomfortable silences at first. Like when you’re talking about someone to a friend behind their back and you suddenly turn round and they are standing beside you having heard every word. Traveling has taught me many things, patience, adaptation, reservation, perseverance, forgiveness and most importantly the dignity to accept when I’ve made a mistake and which direction I must pursue to make things right again by facing the problem instead of leaving it to fester into an anxious predicament. This trip isn’t about couchsurfing anymore. It’s about connecting the world and its people, finding ways to trust in each other, see beyond spite and hatred, lend a helping hand without asking for anything in return and accept jealously as but a gift of fresh energy making me stronger and weakening the souls of those who sadly wish to waste time transmitting waves only they can hear. Before the bus even started its engine, I and Ryan shared a mutual understanding that what was said and done had passed. Between us we both knew what was right and wrong and together without words we ‘Sheath’d our swords for lack of argument’ (Shakespeare) and looked forward to the next chapter of our shared adventure. Entering my 18th Country Brazil was surprisingly much easier than we thought. Nobody asked us for our Yellow Fever Certificate which was stolen anyway with my things and we didn’t even need to leave the bus. The drivers took care of all the stamps and within minutes we had passed seamlessly across the border. It seemed the Brazilians where slightly more efficient and less work shy than the rest of Latin America which concerned me a little since I had now become such a lazy bastard without a care for punctuality. We may even for once arrive to our destination on time I thought? I thought too soon, we arrived to Florianopolis two hours over schedule yet surprisingly my 93rd Official host was still there to greet us, impossible to miss at over six feet tall, the super cool, lovable and incredibly kind Conrado De Sousa Santos (CONRADODESS ) Aka Hightower. Since being robbed my only real fear is getting my bags safely to my host’s house and I can’t thank all those surfers enough who take the time to meet me once I arrive. I’m certainly not as adventurous as I set out to be but once I know my bearings and have my things secure I don’t mind finding my way around a place alone, to really know a city it’s always better to try and get lost and have to find your own way back home but also make sure you know where not to go. Conrado was an exception. Enjoying the summer break from school he had plenty of time to spend with me and Ryan and having the family car to hand we didn’t waste any time hitting our first beach, the popular ‘Mora’, which we accessed via our first scenic view of ‘Lagoa Da Conceicao’, where most tourists tend to stay. Florianopolis is certainly one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited so far looking similar to how I imagine Hawaii to be. An island off the Southern coast of Brazil connected to the mainland via bridge with a population of less than half a million and over forty two pristine beaches, it was easy to understand why most of the world’s top supermodels come to live here or take extended vacations during summer. Recently named as one of the ten most dynamic cities in the world and best place to live in all Brazil the recent tourist boom and property expansion from overseas buyers has raised prices to almost European heights, not good for the budget but who cares, after two years travel I felt like I was finally on holiday. Dazing in the intense heat I soaked up some rays whilst watching a group of mixed colors and stylish afros play ‘Futbol De Areia’ which translates simply to Sand Football, an artistic display of foot and body skills keeping a miniature football in the air using Capoeira style flips and kicks and somehow pulling off an almost impossible maneuver so as not to be the one who ends the flow. No wonder Brazil has won more World Cups than any other country. Everything seemed perfectly relaxed, the colorful cocktail shirt serving up a delightful array of exotic fruit juices with a smile as big as the ocean he faced, big white teeth atop chiseled beach bodies smothered in the perfect coco skin, a year in the gym certainly pays off in this climate. I felt somewhat like a punctured tire, worn out from my endless journey over difficult terrains, the only firm grip I had left was on my cold beer which probably should have been a coconut shell filled with a healthy beverage. Balls to it, if you think my white freckled out of shape body is weird you should check out Blackpool beach during summer, now that’s a sight. My E.T shaped man boobs frizzled into a lovely reddish glaze like a pair of cows bollocks swinging in the rays, yet my angelic talcum powder skin tone actually seemed to be working with the ladies who I caught on occasion having a wee goosy gander! Maybe it was because I was the only one wearing surfing shorts and not those little tight gay hot pants that show the veins in your penis. Or maybe it’s due to the mistaken motto of ‘once you try black you never go back’? Well I’m telling you now, ‘once you try white, you won’t give a shite’! We arrived back home to the first of many spectacular dinners cooked by Conrado’s mother. At first both his parents where rather shy and unable to communicate without the help of Conrado who spoke fluent English but as time went by they seemed to enjoy our presence and we all looked forward to sitting around the table together. Originally from Sao Paulo his mother took great pride in serving us the best traditional foods she was raised on as a child always accompanied with the famous rice and beans which almost every Brazilian can’t go a day without eating. Aside from the gas it gave me I can’t complain, it was delicious, especially mums spicy beans. Our first day was almost too perfect to be true. We were staying in a beautiful apartment complex complete with gymnasium, pool and basketball courts, sun blazing, had a wonderful host family who cooked incredible food, was situated close to the downtown area and had a young adventurous host with plenty of time and a car to show us around. Well at least for the first day anyway! At the end of our first evening out whilst dropping some friends off at home, Conrado accidently reversed the car into a lamppost smashing the back window. Me and Ryan felt so embarrassed having to return home on our first night with Conrado and watch him explain to his mother who had seen the three of us leave the house earlier with a bottle of vodka, which incidentally we never actually drank in the end. However family is close in Latin America and Conrado’s parents obviously loved and trusted their son very much and appreciated his honesty. The most important thing was their son was home safe along with his new guests. Without the car, our intentions to see many of the islands beaches were limited however it didn’t matter so much due to the heavy rainfall. There’s really not much to do in paradise when the streets are flooded except swing in the balconies hammock waiting for the drizzle to subside. Rain may ruin the day but it certainly doesn’t affect the islands nightlife. We joined Conrado for a night out at the world famous ‘El Divino’. On a backpackers budget I and Ryan took full advantage of an hour’s free bar, so much so that the next morning Conrado was woken by his parents who were wondering why I was face down passed out on their bed. Luckily they had already woken and dressed for work before I had somehow slept waked from my room into theirs. Not the first time this has happened but certainly the most embarrassing. Luckily the whole family saw the funny side and after a long cold shower my beaming red chicks finally resided. Having only hosted one person previous to Ryan and I, the other members of the family were beginning to get a little curious about who the new faces were wandering around the family house? Conrado’s uncle and aunty would often visit for lunch with their two children who were very well behaved and respectful to their parents. I have to emphasis how different family unity is in Latin America compared to the western world. Eating together around a table is important and TV isn’t the centre of attention. Families communicate and laugh together, play a role in their upbringing not just as a parent but also as a friend they can trust and the results are staggeringly different. You never see children sulk because they can’t have what they want and they rarely ever answer back. They always seem to appreciate the food put on the table and enjoy a varied healthy diet. Fresh fruit juices are often preferred to Coca Cola etc even though the children are not forced by their parents. Obviously this isn’t the same for every family but it’s noticeable with the majority I’ve stayed with. I offered to cook the whole family my latest experimental Chicken Tikka Masala which they found hard to believe was a national dish from back home. Even though I made it spicy as hell the entire family lapped it up and went in for seconds and thirds. Even the youngest member Pablo enjoyed the curry painfully washing each mouthful down with a cup of “Kuat’ a popular sweet drink made from the extract of a red ‘Guarana’ berry that grows in Venezuela and Northern Brazil. Guarana has gained huge popularity recently in the US due to its high caffeine content being used in many of today’s well known energy and sports drinks. Again no wonder Brazil won so many World Cups consuming all those legal highs. In return for the curry, Conrado’s Aunty invited us to her home for one of Brazil’s most popular national dishes, ‘Feijoada’, a heavy stew made from beans, sausage meat and almost every part of the pig. It’s so heavy, I felt like I’d swallowed a canon ball and it was funny watching Ryan push the pigs ears to the side of his plate. Not my favorite dish so far. I much preferred Conrado’s mum’s meat filled pancakes covered with tomato sauce, or better still the fried fish, which uncle had caught in a fresh water lake close to home. The best fish I’ve ever had. Ryan and I agreed we were being spoiled yet Conrado’s mum wouldn’t have it any other way, not only was she representing her family traditions, she was flying the flag for her home town Sao Paulo, beloved country Brazil and doing all she could to make two guests feel completely at home. So much we really didn’t want to leave. We joined Uncle and Aunty for a day out on ‘Palmas’ beach outside of the island further North along the coastline. Less populated with spectacular rock formations in the sea we enjoyed a rare day of sun before fishing in the ocean as the sun descended spilling warm spectrums over crashing waves. All of us where unsuccessful at catching a fish but often it’s what you take from an experience rather than what you reap. I also sampled my first taste of fresh ‘Garapa’, made from pure sugar cane passed through a grinder extracting a milky yellow beverage which is so sweet my eyeballs almost popped out of there sockets. Great if you want to be toothless at thirty. After a couple of successful couchsurfing meetings it was obvious that the locals or foreign people residing on the island enjoyed living here. Aside from the continuous days of heavy rain, when the suns out there’s plenty of activities to do, such as wind sailing, surfing, sand boarding, cycling and much more. Fitness is a part of life in Florianopolis, not just to look good but to feel great and the energy resonates all around. One thing I miss back home is my gym, having a healthy focus and tiring my body out ready for a good nights kip. Every day I wake up thinking today is the day I begin my new fitness regime but honestly I’m so worn out from traveling now and barely have any regular sleeping patterns that anytime I get to just relax I take it. I’m still too scared to do any kind of sports due to my knee, which often leads to many sleepless nights and a growing anxiety. It’s easy for people to say I should do this and that but I feel that many factors have altered my enthusiasm. Getting robbed certainly made me a little less avid to go out as much, breaking my knee has definitely made me lazy and having lived with almost a hundred different people has knocked me slightly off balance rendering me without that one place I can escape to by myself if need be. Friends and family tell me it’s time to come home. Why, I don’t have a home anymore which is probably for the best cause if I did I think I would have give in to the temptation of my own bed by now. Every time I get a rash or spot on my body I panic thinking I’ve got some kind of deadly virus but I blame that on watching to much ‘Dr House’. After all it’s always the guy who returns from South America that suffers from some unknown brain infection causing him to hallucinate and see things beyond imagination. Well most of the time that’s true. Regardless of all the negatives, the positives are enough to keep me going and the random acts of kindness I continuously experience with the majority of my hosts are the reason the fish continues to fly. If the rest of Brazil continues to be this good it may well be my favorite country so far. Obrigado Conrado and Family. Muito Bom!
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